Start on the left side of the ledge by a good size flake. Climb the slab to the right of the flake past two bolts to just under a nose. Climb out right of the nose untill your feet are even with the bottom of the nose then clip a bolt then step out onto it. Climb up esay slab to the top. You can all so pull strait onto the nose at a little bit of a harder grade. The route says trad in the guide book but you can do it as sport if you run it out a bit.
NOTE- See 7/24/23 COMMENT if you plan to run it out.
Rumney, NH
The gear under the nose (before bolt 3) is not confidence inspiring: very rotten and shallow. If 5.8-5.9 is your top grade, I suggest a rehearsal on TR. This should be possible by climbing Gaggle of Geese first.
Guidebook says 5.9 but I think its either soft or upgraded because of the pro. Oct 28, 2013
Maine