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Routes in Q Crags

Crusade. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Everlastingyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feet First. 5.9 R T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Holed Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Remembrance Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Stones, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Senile Dementia. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stone the Crows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var Leads) Gene Vallee
Page Views: 566 total · 8/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 14, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Stone the Crows is a Brit saying of incredulity or annoyance. Dedicated to a Raven friend who always greets us on our ascents. A fine long expedition with some excellent pitches. The route climbs to the biggest summit just north of Two Finger Canyon. See Topo.
Fourth class the gully passing right under a massive guano hole to a groove with a line of holes.

P1) Climb past four bolts and a couple of cams to double anchors. A nice pitch 150' 5.8

P2) Continue up the groove past two bolts then move right to tree belay. 70' 5.8. (Rap anchors 30' below the old tree)

P3) Go about 600' north along the massive ledge to a weakness in the wall that lies directly below the large blocks of the upper corner. Three bolts lead up the unlikely looking wall at a surprisingly low grade. Another bolt is out to the right. Continue up to the blocks and natural belay. 180' 5.7.

P4) Easy climbing up the big corner with small to medium cams. When just below the left slanting roof crack move round to the right then up to a good ledge. Single bolt belay, but can be backed up. 200' 5.6

P5) Tango to the top to a smiley face belay at the back of the ledge. 70' 5.3.

Scramble out left, then walk up the ridge to the fine summit with register in cairn. We were surprised to find that nine and a half years ago with Layne Potter I had climbed to this summit from the north forgetting drill bits for the descent raps. The climb we later named "Senile Dementia"

Descent:- Go back down the south ridge for at least 400' keeping eyes open to move left along a narrow ledge to rap anchors. A 200' rap brings one back to the massive ledge left of the start of pitch 3. Go back to top of P2. Rap anchors 30' below old tree.

Location

Just north of Two Fingers Canyon . See Topo

Protection

Cams 1" to 3" Two 60m ropes
Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
Really fun route. It's not just a great summit, but quality climbing on every pitch. Two easy raps back down. Almost feel like you could walk off back to the big ledge, but the rap is there, so why risk it. Mar 4, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.8
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.8
Good one .. Glad you liked the climb .. .. You have lots of adventure to go at ... Seems like this type of climbing is right up your street. Mar 4, 2018

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