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Routes in S Crags

Airborn to New Time Zone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Berghaus Red T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Every Picture Tells a Story T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glenfiddich Regrets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaving America T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Milky Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 580 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Gene Vallee Andy Ross (Var Leads) 9th Oct 2012
Page Views: 43 total, 1/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Scramble up the gully left and below the second wave south of Two Fingers Canyon. When the face is reached continue left up to the top of the wave. The climb starts on the left side of the double wave. Overall the climbing is an easy mountaineering route but leads to a fine summit and great views.
P1) Boulder off the ground onto the slab. Easy slab to natural belay. 150' 5.4
P2) Continue up the ridge to above the drop off into the tree filled garden. 180' 5.4
P3) Down climb the easy ridge to the north to enter the garden. Walk back left to below a slab that leads to steeper vague twin cracks. Climb easy slab for 60' to the cracks Then past 4 bolts and a couple of cams to bolt belay below the brown wall. 180' 5.7
4) Climb the brown wall using slings for pro to a trad spike belay at its top. 70' 5.4

Descent:- Scramble down ridge to the north then keep right to access gullys that lead back to the garden below the steep wall of P3.
Just below and left of the easy walk down ridge (after P2) are double anchors which take you (100') into the large amphitheatre. Scramble right then down back to the start.

Location

South of two Fingers Canyon,about 20 mins from parking ... See topo

Protection

1" to 3" cams .60m rope

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