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Routes in Damfino Canyon

Damfidont T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Damfino Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Jason Nelson
Page Views: 616 total, 10/month
Shared By: markguycan on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

P1:varied crack- initially fingers and hands, pass an awkward face move (5.9) to OW, clip a bolt to the left then hand traverse on jugs to corner system, above this clip rap anchor and continue up easier another 70ft to next anchor.PG13.
P2: move belay to the left 30ft. MONEY PITCH- this is what it's all about. Climb fingers in a steep right facing dihedral, pass a couple small roofs and a pod to anchors 110ft (12-)
P3: continue up dihedral on 5.8 hands (80ft)
P4:turn arete onto North face pass a couple of bolts and gear. The exposure is HUGE! We climbed this pitch as a mix of C1 and 5.11; it'll probably go at 5.12. Alternatively, continue up dihedral/ow/chimney 5.10ish "Damfido". Rap the route.

Location

right of Damfino original route about 50ft.

Protection

dbl set #00-#2, one #3,#3.5,#4. take extra #0.3 and maybe five #0.4's
set of nuts. 70M rope.

Photos

Zach Harrison
  5.12- PG13
Zach Harrison  
  5.12- PG13
This line is worth the bush wack. The first pitch is by far the worst. P2 is so good we both led it, but felt like its 5.11+. P4 position and climbing is awesome, and goes free at 5.12-. After a bit of lichen scrubbing, Matt Swartz sent in style, I sent less stylishly. We swapped out the tat for chain on the raps so its good to go. Finger crack fanatics, get on it! Oct 21, 2017