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Routes in Rogers Slide

Bill Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Crucible of War, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grand Game, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kings and Desperate Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Finger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Finger Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Matrix Reloaded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matrix, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Parallel Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screaming Matrix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Screaming Meaney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,113 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

I continue above this pitch by linking into Little Finger, then climbing through LF's direct finish overhang, yielding an excellent 3 pitch 5.7 PG route.
Bill Route itself is an excellent intro to the friction climbing on Roger's Rock. The pro is abundant compared to many of the routes, yet spaced apart enough to give initiates the heeby-geebies on their first go. The museum-grade 1/4" rivet just below the belay anchors is an amusing(??) reminder of "how it was done" back in the day.
Once you've deciphered the initial moves, spider-crawl up the slab following a drunken line of bolts to a two-bolt belay.
A second pitch has been added, though I'm not sure where it goes. Note that the rock pillar lying on the slab above the anchors is part of Little Finger Direct which is 5.8X.

Location

About 50' right of the obvious crack of Little Finger, just right of a high bump along the base ledge, at a tiny right-facing corner that leans right and fades out 10' up.
Descent is via rappel with double ropes.

Protection

Mostly bolts, but the initial hard move is protected by a brass or small wired nut. Linking to Little Finger requires a full trad rack.
Make sure to bring double ropes, as the rappels are very long.

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
I think the opening moves, done on very thin wire-nuts for "protection" is the crux, hence I rated it 5.7...even though it's common that "the first 15 ft don't count for the rating." Jun 23, 2015
Andy Munas
Phoenixville, PA
 
Andy Munas   Phoenixville, PA
 
Agreed, definitely bring a #3 BD stopper to protect the first toughest move. Otherwise you would have a ledge fall / tumble to the lake on a fall. The rest of the route is fun but as all "sport" climbs here very run out. I climbed it on doubles and clipped two lower pieces of mank (not mentioned above - maybe worse than the one below the belay) on the right rope. I don't think any of these older bolts would hold a fall anymore. And yes, it is just about 170 feet with 4 bolts and one #3 stopper. Aug 31, 2015
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
The upper two pitches are rally a blast as well and very well bolted.. I think P2 goes at 5.8 ish.. and p3 is 5.7? You can see them from the belay Apr 19, 2016
Jesse Bryant
New Haven, CT
Jesse Bryant   New Haven, CT
climbed this today after little finger. tough first move for sure. P1 was about 180'. This is Bill Route.

P2+P3 is referred to as something like Still Bill: P2 is about 5.8 with 3 bolts then P3 is like 5.7+? with like 4 bolts and a finger sized piece or two and meets up with little finger just near the top.

same rappel system beta as little finger May 14, 2018

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