PRINT: Rock Climb Gut Bomb, South Platte

Gut Bomb

5.10c/d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: Little help here?
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Wipeyur Buttress

Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures Details

Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.

March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.

Description

This has reasonably fun climbing on decent rock. The crux involves liebacking and stemming up a sometimes slick corner. The rock is pretty solid until the end where there are definitely some blocks that should be cleaned out; just watch what you grab as the route heads right towards the anchors at the top of the climb.

Location

Gut Bomb is the 4th climb (the first is Heinous Anus) up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress.

Protection

15 bolts (including 5 in the approach gully) plus anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Buttress. <br>
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The dotted blue line shows the approach gully (hidden behind the slab in the foreground). <br>
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Original photo credit: MP user BameR.

Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Buttress. The dotted blue line shows the approach gully (hidden behind the slab in the foreground). Original photo credit: MP user BameR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO

5.10d

Fun line. You run up the chimney and then go from there. We brought the belayer up to this point and tied off to the first bolt on the route. Really couldn't find a better way to do it without a lot of rope drag and potential fall danger.

The movement is fun, and it is worth the effort to do this line.

I would grade it at 10d. If the line above it is 10b (which I think it is), this was much harder.

With a 70m rope, you can rap all the way down the chimney. Jun 21, 2015