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Morning Thunder
5.12d,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 9
votes
FA: Little help here?
Colorado
> S Platte
> Devil's Head
> Wipeyur Buttress
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per
Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection.
The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls.
Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner).
The crux for most will be a sequence about 2/3 of the way up the route where you must make a series of moves using a vertical, shallow, flaring crack for your right hand before making a long move to a decent left hand hold and a brief rest - the fun part is that this section comes after you have already done several 5.12 sections!! The climbing is difficult from the moment you step out of the gully until you latch a key jug above the final bolt.
Location
Morning Thunder is the second route as you climb up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress (the first is Heinous Anus).
Protection
11 bolts (including 3 bolts in the approach gully) plus anchors.
[Hide Photo] Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Buttress. The dotted blue line shows the approach gully (hidden behind the slab in the foreground). Original photo credit: MP user BameR.
Colorado
Centennial, CO
San Diego
San Diego