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Morning Thunder

5.12d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 9 votes
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Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Wipeyur Buttress
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Description

'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls.

Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner).

The crux for most will be a sequence about 2/3 of the way up the route where you must make a series of moves using a vertical, shallow, flaring crack for your right hand before making a long move to a decent left hand hold and a brief rest - the fun part is that this section comes after you have already done several 5.12 sections!! The climbing is difficult from the moment you step out of the gully until you latch a key jug above the final bolt.

Location

Morning Thunder is the second route as you climb up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress (the first is Heinous Anus).

Protection

11 bolts (including 3 bolts in the approach gully) plus anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Buttress. <br>
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The dotted blue line shows the approach gully (hidden behind the slab in the foreground). <br>
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Original photo credit: MP user BameR.
[Hide Photo] Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Buttress. The dotted blue line shows the approach gully (hidden behind the slab in the foreground). Original photo credit: MP user BameR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] A quick note about the grade: one of my guides calls it 12d/13a, and one calls it 12d. I originally thought that this route was about 12c; however, my partner told me that I was being a bit harsh (i.e. a dick!). There are not any 13a (or even 12d) moves on this route, but the route does have quite a lot of 5.12 climbing without any real rest stances; thus perhaps 12d is fair. Regardless, this route is excellent. Get on it. Oct 9, 2012
slim

  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I think 12d is probably fair for this route. Agreed that there aren't any shutdown moves on it, but by the time you get to the crux, you have some wear and tear on you. When I tried it the first time, I thought I would get it really quick, but I kept unraveling at the crux, and it took me more tries than I thought it would. Great route, the climbing is superb on this one. Sep 2, 2014
drewhouser
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] IMHO, this is one of the best sport routes in the Front Range. Sep 8, 2016
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] This is an amazing route - it seemed impossible until I found a couple holds in the crux. I personally thought this was a tad easier than Holy Crap but much better in quality. Oct 20, 2018
R 3
San Diego
[Hide Comment] What's with the two bolts about an arm's width apart on the same horizontal plane? Looks like it's two options for this same line? Right felt more sustained and kept more with the character of the rest of the route, while the left looked easier but with twice as many moves. Any insight? Oct 3, 2021
[Hide Comment] Probably me trying to figure out how’s it would go, sorry for the confusing clips. Oct 4, 2021
R 3
San Diego
[Hide Comment] Right on, thanks for the great line. Oct 5, 2021