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Routes in East Buttress

Blister in the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chasing the Sun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Voltage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men in Bright Lycra T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of the Forest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shisha T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot to Thrill (PROJECT) TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough, Lauren Bergeron & James Dickson
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Start at a large left angling crack in a slab about 15' left of the corner start to Out of the Forest.

Climb the large crack to the tree ledge. Move left to the arete next to a maple tree clump. Climb the face/arete placing gear into a small right facing corner. Clip a bolt and exit the corner onto a foot ledge. Continue up the slab past a second bolt and a mild runout on easier terrain. Finish up a quartz dike in the headwall and finish at the pine tree (shared with Out of the Forest).


East Buttress


Standard Rack, 2 bolts


This climb is named for my mother... Happy B-day! Oct 15, 2012
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+ PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+ PG13
I thought the white face below the 2nd bolt 5.9; as for the (lower) "arete by the tree clump"....I guess the arete is climbable using 'rock only' [although I would venture a guess at a grade harder than 5.9]; I'll admit I started with a 'tree move' and even with THAT thought it pretty 5.9-ish.
Also, looking at what you'd hit, and where you'd wind up if you blew off the first few moves before clipping the 2nd bolt....wouldn't be pretty. Aug 13, 2015

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