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Routes in East Buttress

Blister in the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chasing the Sun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Voltage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men in Bright Lycra T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of the Forest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shisha T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot to Thrill (PROJECT) TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough, Lauren Bergeron & James Dickson
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start at a large left angling crack in a slab about 15' left of the corner start to Out of the Forest.

Climb the large crack to the tree ledge. Move left to the arete next to a maple tree clump. Climb the face/arete placing gear into a small right facing corner. Clip a bolt and exit the corner onto a foot ledge. Continue up the slab past a second bolt and a mild runout on easier terrain. Finish up a quartz dike in the headwall and finish at the pine tree (shared with Out of the Forest).

Location

East Buttress

Protection

Standard Rack, 2 bolts

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+ PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+ PG13
I thought the white face below the 2nd bolt 5.9; as for the (lower) "arete by the tree clump"....I guess the arete is climbable using 'rock only' [although I would venture a guess at a grade harder than 5.9]; I'll admit I started with a 'tree move' and even with THAT thought it pretty 5.9-ish.
Also, looking at what you'd hit, and where you'd wind up if you blew off the first few moves before clipping the 2nd bolt....wouldn't be pretty. Aug 13, 2015
chinos
 
chinos  
 
This climb is named for my mother... Happy B-day! Oct 15, 2012