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Routes in Roadside Rock

After Midnight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backslide S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Computer Girl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Life Without Beer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Midnight Visitor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 145 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,700 total, 27/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Bouldery start from 10 feet off the ground (crux) provides spice from the get go (stick clip the first bolt if you want piece of mind). Stay on the slab at the very left edge. Second crux is pulling the smaller bulge (grabbing the tree reduces the difficulty). Saunter up the rest of the way to the bolts.

P2 goes up and left. After clipping a couple of bolts, wrap around to the large chimney (use a 48' runner to reduce drag). Climb the chimney/crack straight up. Clip the final bolt to gain the summit.

Location

Just left of Midnight Visitor--about 5 feet left of the tree on the edge of the large slab.

Two raps to get down with a 60, which just barely makes it to the belay ledge. A 70m would provide better piece of mind. There's an exposed walk off.

Protection

P1 has 6 bolts; P2 has 10 bolts.
Watch out for a loose hanger near the top of the second pitch. Jul 20, 2017
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
If I remember correctly, I don't believe the Beta photo is accurate. From what I can tell that photo shows a line that goes up the first pitch of computer girl and then cuts right to midnight visitor. The second pitch of Computer Girl wanders around the corner to the left. Expect lots of rope drag and bring sure along runners to help with that. I've never been able to find a good walk off. Usually end up repelling off of the tree back and to the right of the top of the route.


EDIT: The Topo now reflects a more accurate representation of the the route. The second pitch wraps around the left side of the rock, taking the leader of view of the belayer. Jul 3, 2016
This route is great for getting introduced to multi-pitch climbing. The crux is the first move, a high step. I had to do it dynamically whereby I jumped off my left foot to both shift my weight over, and stand up with, my right foot. Jun 2, 2016
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.9
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.9
If you link both pitches into one long wandering pitch, it's more fun! Definitely bring a ton of runners if you're going to do this though! Aug 23, 2015
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
The 2nd pitch is such a style shift from the 1st pitch, its almost a shame that there isn't something stylistically similar to get you there. The movement is made considerably easier if you're proficient at (very) flared hand jams. Jun 7, 2015
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.9
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.9
First pitch has good rock, and is mostly easy slab climbing with a tricky crux bulge about 2/3rds of the way up. If you want you can TR or rap from the first pitch anchors with a 60m.
Second pitch is kind of dirty and exfoliating and the bolt line wanders A LOT. Runners pretty much mandatory if you don't want to experience rope drag hell. That said its still worth climbing the second pitch for the top out alone. Walk off the formation, it's a bit exposed but easy enough. Oct 1, 2013
S.Lee
  5.9
S.Lee  
  5.9
Fun route, first pitch is pretty straight forward with 2 slabby cruxes. Second pitch is a lot of fun working up the around the corner. Bring multiple slings (I used all 4 I had) to help with rope drag. Overall a great route. Jun 12, 2013