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Routes in Falcon Block

Millennium Falcon, The V1 5
Natural Selection V3 6A
Natural Selection Left V2+ 5+
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,162 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bradley Mark Edwards on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I know for sure I am not the first person to do this, so let me know if you've got info on the problem.

Start on two crimps on the left side of the overhung face. Make an all points off dyno to the good dish. From there, make another big move to the lip right below the top of the boulder. Top out straight up (the same way you top out The Millennium Falcon).

The first move isn't necessarily hard, it's just not natural, but it's a great move.

Location

This is on the left side of the west overhanging face of the Millennium Falcon Boulder.

Protection

Pads and spotters.

Photos

Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
 
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
 
Dang Jesse! I didn't know the dead point was possible. Grizwald, it's definitely a fun problem! I don't grade things well, so any input would be great. I definitely think that the second move is harder than the first, the first move just feels more "heady" to me. Maybe we'll see you out there next time! Mar 12, 2013
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
We always did a deadpoint from the crimps to the large jug on the right, matched, then moved up the rail to the finish. I guess dyno'ing just makes for more radness! The right side of the Falcon goes, but as you move further out the lip, the rock becomes suspect. We moved until the rock deteriorated and mantled up. Mar 11, 2013
Grizwald Grizwald
Durango, CO
Grizwald Grizwald   Durango, CO
Maybe the toughest V3 dyno? The first dyno is akward and tough to snag, doable, but tough. Then the second move is no easy task either. One of the best boulders I have ever seen. We will be back for this one for sure. Mar 10, 2013
Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
 
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
 
I don't we've tried the right arete. Does it start the same as Falcon? I saw several folks working "Natural Selection" and saw two folks get it, but it's super fun and wanted to share. I'd like to hear more about the arete though! Dec 5, 2012
We've played around on that, fun hard alternative to the standard Falcon. Have you tried the arete on the far right side of the Falcon Boulder? We couldn't stick it, but it felt doable. Dec 5, 2012