PRINT: Rock Climb Techman, The New River Gorge Region

Techman

5.12c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 28 votes
FA: Doug Reed 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Listed in Williams guidebook as Mantek Iron-Crete.

Tenuous moves on small holds between good rests. Joins with Freaky Stylee at the last bolt.

Location

Immediately to the right of Freaky Stylee

Protection

8 Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shaking out after the initial crimps

The right hand sidepull in this picture may have broken off

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12c

I felt like this route is a little easier if you are tall. Oct 19, 2015

Chris Petty

Precision, laser focused moves to send this one. Loved it. Sep 25, 2016

Dan Ressler
Silver Spring, MD

Comes together fairly quickly once you figure out the low crux. Technically delicious. Pump is of little factor. Apr 10, 2019

Alex Rollins
Oak Hill, WV

I broke a hold on it in late november 2019 (the side-pulling crimp after the post-crux jug). got on it again this week and the move still goes, but it's substantially more difficult. Aug 25, 2020

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12c

Are you referring to the right hand sidepull above the large slot to the right of the 4th bolt? I just posted a picture of myself doing the move I am thinking about from your description (yellow pants and black shirt). Is my right hand on the hold that is now broken? Thanks. Aug 25, 2020

Alex Rollins
Oak Hill, WV

Yep, That's the one. Aug 26, 2020

Chaz O

5.12d

In my opinion the 2nd crux created by the broken sidepull is harder than the original 1st crux, and it comes after the original crux, so it seems to bump the grade. I think this is 12d now for me at 5'10 w/ +2 wingspan and maybe harder if you're less than 5'10". I haven't climbed routes in this style for quite some time, but seems like 3 grades harder than Freaky Stylee Oct 28, 2023