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Decorator Crab

5.10a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 17 votes
FA: Dave Stallard
California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Mt St Helena > Palisades > Table Rock > 4 - The Shock Block

Description

Clip the 1st bolt from the ledge, then step off and right with insta-exposure! Crank up the large holds on alternating vertical and steep terrain till the final slab before the anchors. Classic! There is a 4 bolt Direct Start which starts on a lower tier of rock and goes up a nice dihedral (12 bolts - MUST use a 60M!).

Location

Start on the far right of the ledge (8 bolts). here is a 4 bolt Direct Start which starts on a lower tier of rock and goes up a nice dihedral (12
bolts - MUST use a 60M!).

Protection

8 or 12 bolts depending on where you start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last Climb of the day - cleaning anchors on decorator crab
[Hide Photo] Last Climb of the day - cleaning anchors on decorator crab

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Favorite of the day. Nice and long with lower start, and cool belay spot May 13, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The first bolt of the lower start is missing. We found a stick to clip the second bolt. Nov 3, 2013
Johan
Palo Alto, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The left of the two anchor bolts shared by Decorator Crab and Idle Hands is highly suspect and needs replacement. The hanger spins, but more importantly the boltĀ itself visibly flexes when one pulls down on it. I did not try to pull outward on it (perpendicular to the rock) or otherwise see if I could dislodge it. The other anchor bolt felt safe, so I rappelled by placing my faith in that bolt.

Thank you to whoever has equipped these climbs! If anybody who is experienced with bolting in this rock type could replace it that would be a great service. Nov 18, 2015
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] If you start off the ledge it's an awesome 5.9 warm-up! Mar 28, 2016