To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Central Pillar of Envy
5.11a,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
FA: Chad Suchoski
California
> San Francisco B…
> Wine Country/No…
> Mt St Helena
> Palisades
> Table Rock
> 3 - Iron Curtain
Description
This "adventure" route starts in the gully between Defector and Warcraft. This route is has amazing position. Unfortunately (IMO) this mixed climb will wallow in obscurity due to the need to use pro down low where the rock quality is questionable. The gear may hold but I would consider it mostly psychological.
P1-5.5: Start up the mossy and chossy 3rd class gully, then traverse left at the top to an anchor. The final moves are the 5.5 while the lower gully is mostly 4th Class Moss/Choss.
P2-5.7: Traverse right from the belay towards the obvious corner and fire up using mostly gear. Top out and traverse right and up to the base of the huge dihedral above.
P3-5.11a: Take the overhanging moss/gritty crack following bolts and possible intermediate gear placements to the top of the cliff. Use the small
scrub oak over the rim for your anchor.
Location
Obvious gully leading to steep crack on left side of the huge pillar above the Shock Block.
Protection
Bring gear to 3" for
P1 and P2.
Off the Grid…
Pitch 2 only requires a couple cams from .5" to about 1.5". Double up on the mid (off hands) size would probably be more than enough. I think the pitch is only 5.7 maybe 5.8 if you really want to push it at the top. The rock on this pitch is totally bomber for gear, some of the best at table for sure.
Pitch 3 requires no gear or climbing in the wide crack. You kinda climb the arete to the right of the crack and knee bar the offwidth when you want to rest. I meant to add another bolt to this pitch (first one) as I think the current first bolt is a little too high.
I also think the last pitch is 5.10d/.11a not .11c. If I remember correctly. It's been several years since I've been up it, but a friend of mine climbed it a year or so ago and I believe that's the grade he came up with as well.
That last pitch would be 5 stars if it weren't so mossy. Full on overhanging buckets with no hands rests the whole way. The rest of the route, though aesthetically pleasing, is kinda so so climbing and much easier than it looks from the ground. Feb 28, 2013
I bet if you spent another day on it thinking over the bottom pitches, and cleaning it, this could be an absolute classic. Regardless, I appreciate the effort you did put into it Chad. I know all too well what it takes to put up a route that long on Table Rock...umm.. rock :) Feb 28, 2013
Off the Grid…
The second pitch is kind lame being the only (100ft) pitch at Table that takes pro. I mean you'd have to haul gear out there just specifically for that pitch alone. I never added anything because I went ground up on those pitches and had the gear. Stopping to place a bolt instead of a bomber cam while leading would be dumb but I can certainly see why people would rather it just be bolted.
The last pitch I only cleaned a little bit because when I dropped in to replace the old aid bolts it had been raining the day before and everything was moist and seeping. I gave it a quick scrub but that's about it. I lead the whole thing the next day and have never been back on it.
I agree though, it needs some work to increase it's potential qualities for sure. Feb 28, 2013