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Routes in China Wall

Around the World S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bassoon , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bejing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bio-Fest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blackout S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Blank Out S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bolt Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chinese Connection S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Coast to Coast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crimpfest S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dihedral Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarf's dilema T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
First Blood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Minnowmaker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moratorium S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oboe S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Organ Grinder S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Praise the Lowered S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Secret Sharer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slugfest S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sportfest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Super Tweak S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Train-Fest S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trench Warfare S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tweak S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Unknown 5.11a?? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Viable Option S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vulcan Crawl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total, 2/month
Shared By: Evan Schaible on Oct 4, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This crack is located between Gang of Four.and another unknown route just left of Minnow Maker.

Size ranges from thin fingers to wide hands, and involves a good amount of stemming. Just before the obvious crux there are some nice pockets on the left face to make your placement. I ran the crux out (not recommended) but there is a bomber spot for a red c4.

Location

Far right side of the cave. You can't miss this crack. It goes right up next to the "Vulcan Roof".

Protection

Standard small to midsize rack, and a couple small nuts.

There are sling anchors at the top, although you can make a small traverse to the anchors of the unknown route to the right.

Photos

@scott - I have never seen beiners on either the slings at the top of the crack or the anchors on the neighboring climb. As a side note, couple of weeks ago Brian and I walked down and saw some fellas with ascenders in the cave, and they promptly lowered and took off when we got there, it would seem with every draw that wasnt quick linked. Sad reality, but our crap gets jacked out of there quite often. Oct 19, 2012
scottso
St. George, Utah
scottso   St. George, Utah
Who stole the biners off of this climb? I would like to see them back. Two green BD's. Oct 9, 2012