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Dissonance

5.13a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 19 votes
FA: Doug Reed 1988
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description

Dissonance was the first 5.13 established on the Endless Wall. It has high quality stone, and a few intriguing moves, but the overall route quality does not reach the precedent set by routes likes Dial 911, Quinsana, The Racist or Black Rider. This route has got to be one of the reachiest routes at the New River Gorge, as many shorter climbers are rendered helpless at the mega undercling crux.

Begin by climbing through a roof, or simply reach past the roof with your feet on the ground if you are tall. Pulling the initial roof can be a bit challenging, but once established on the vertical face, the intensity eases for a few bolts. Expect 5.11+ climbing featuring long lock offs and technical footwork from the second to the sixth bolt. Bear down on some crimps, make some deep lock offs, and high step your way through the pre-crux between the sixth and seventh. Rest up a bit at the seventh, then launch into the engaging reachy crux. If you're six feet tall the crux is no big deal, but if you're short the crux will give you fits and likely send you packing for the RRG. Cool pocketed features and slopers guide you to the anchor.

A good strategy for attacking this route is to lower off of New World Order, hang draws and scope out the crux. It can be very difficult to spot hand holds in the crux region since the stone is pure white.

Location

To the Left of New World Order. Route starts on a chossy ledge covered by a low roof.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Caleb on Dissonance
[Hide Photo] Caleb on Dissonance
Maddy Grupper on Dissonance - Jonathan Sheldon
[Hide Photo] Maddy Grupper on Dissonance - Jonathan Sheldon

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pnelson

 
[Hide Comment] Totally true about this route being reachy, and in a way that if you can't do the standard beta of good right undercling to a small left crimp, there aren't a lot of intermediates to help you. That said, I'm 5'10" and do not consider the undercling move to even be the crux. I've seen climbers down to 5'8" (depending on ape index) do the crux, too; the "6 foot" comment in this description may be a slight exaggeration. Feb 10, 2020