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Disco Death March

5.10d, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: 1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyenne Wills
New York > Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends

Description

Great climb if you want some off-width action in the Gunks!

According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.

Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.

Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.

Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier

Location

Take the Baby trail from the carriage road. Continue left at the fork in trail. In about 30 feet, this will take you directly below the obvious off-width, Disco Death March.

Protection

G rated, but requires large gear.
Recommended: 2-#6's, 1-#5 as a minimum
Rappel at top of ledge

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Traverse under the roof
[Hide Photo] Traverse under the roof
Matt onsighting
[Hide Photo] Matt onsighting
Tree bottom right is at the belay on top of the boulder
[Hide Photo] Tree bottom right is at the belay on top of the boulder

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Flynn
Northeast mostly
[Hide Comment] vimeo.com/29911701


Get all your beta here.. Oct 3, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Fun video! The route looks nice. Oct 3, 2012
Ryan Chelstowski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Put fresh static on the rap anchor on 10/1 when I ran it. Oct 3, 2012
Aaron Moskowitz
Philadelphia
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] Watch your cams after you clip the anchor and weight the rope. We had our rope walk our cams right up into the void and it turned into a production to retrieve them. In hindsight it may be better to belay the second up from above. Two 6-inch pieces are a minimum but if you have a third you should bring it. Jun 4, 2013
Cheyenne Wills
[Hide Comment] Just some trivia on the first ascent (at least what I remember from it :)

It was Don and Mike's route really.

Don and Mike were looking around for some off width gear to use and I had a couple of #11 Hexs in the car (this was before spring loaded cams), so I was invited along for the adventure.

I remember following and cleaning stacked Hexs (yeah.. real secure)

Don more then likely climbed the route in his work boots.

I think I came up with the name Disco Death March, mostly because of the under cling traverse. Mar 10, 2014
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10
[Hide Comment] It's possible to almost entire avoid the undercling traverse by going slightly lower on some small feet and smaller hands. Gets you to the stance below the lip without too much trouble, although it's probably easier for taller folks. Jul 27, 2015