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Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 480 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ray Ringle and Chip Chase, Summer 1980
Page Views: 1,966 total, 31/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Crazy slab moves, hard grooves, stunning features, killer crack climbing, a "thank God" mono pocket, tricky gear ... this climb has it all!

One of its incredible features is the Uncarved Block itself, a huge slice of rock that calved off the dome long ago creating an amazing belay stance and its stellar third pitch.

Uncarved Block is seldom repeated, perhaps partly owing to its reputation for its old hardware, stiff climbing, and runout 4th pitch. Fortunately, thanks to the ASCA, the old bolts have been replaced, and modern gear takes a bit of the sting out of the 4th pitch. The result is that this exceptional route is now a little safer for those wanting to repeat old-school, hardman Stronghold classics.

The first three pitches are generally well protected and definitely worth repeating even if pushing your limits on the 4th pitch isn't in the cards. The first pitch has committing, tricky slab and groove climbing. The second pitch transfers the belay onto the Uncarved Block itself (which is awesome). The third pitch is a fantastic crack and corner system extending high onto End Pinnacle. It is easy to rappel from this point into the descent from End Pinnacle (160')

The fourth pitch is both serious and stunning. It starts in a steep, difficult-to-protect groove and continues to a beautiful crack, committing face moves, and runout slab. Its ground-up first ascent with 1980 gear and shoes is an example of some of the boldest Stronghold leads.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.11) - Start at the base of the slab directly under the last rappel from the End Pinnacle descent and the Uncarved Block. Climb straight up to a small roof with a bolt to its right (tricky pro on 5.10 terrain). Angle up and right past a second bolt and into a groove. Follow the groove up and left past a third bolt. Once on easy ground, traverse directly right to a stance under the tip of the Uncarved Block.

Pitch 2 (40', 5.10+) - Execute a hard mantle/OW move on to the block and move the belay to a hole at the back of the block.

Pitch 3 (150', 5.11) - Climb the stellar crack until it seams out. Step a bit to the left and work up 20' on easy face moves until it is possible to return to the crack where it opens back up. Continue up the crack/groove to a three bolt anchor.

Variation: (150', 5.9) - From the belay stance move up and left on the block to the arete. Climb the arete clipping two bolts and placing occasional gear. Arrive at the same three bolt anchor as described above.

It is possible to rap 160' straight down into the End Pinnacle descent if you want to avoid the final pitch.

Pitch 4 (120', 5.11R) - Work up the 5.11 groove with only tiny gear and a flared cam for protection. Gain a beautiful crack with better gear and follow it to a bolt on the right. Continue directly right from the bolt to easier ground, then run it out up the slab past a second bolt to a narrow ledge. Body belay on the ledge next to a tiny tree backed up by a bomber new bolt about 6' above the ledge.

Pitch 5 (40', 5.10 A0) - Aid past two new bolts and make a slab move or two to easy ground. Body belay in the huge bowl above or tie off a large feature on the left.

Variation: from the belay step right, make a committing move up and clip a bolt. Then make a few slab moves up to the bowl (5.10).

Location

From the approach to End Pinnacle, hike up and left along the bottom of the cliff about 200 feet. Look for the Uncarved Block about 100' above. The start is directly under the last rappels for the descent from End Pinnacle.

Protection

Doubles from tiny cams (black Alien or equivalent) to #1 Camalot. Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4 Camalots. Stoppers including an assortment of small ones. Ball nuts are very helpful on pitch 4.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Jim said that he did the second ascent with Bill Hatcher. Chip repeated the route in 1985 - I will have to ask him who is partner was. Aleix Serrat-Capdevila and I also climbed it last October. I do not know of any other ascents, although I would not be surprised if DDC has done it. Feb 14, 2015
Great job guys!!

I'm curious about the ascent history (complete ascent)? I know Pat O'Herron and Jason Worrell did the 3rd (or maybe 4th ascent) during fall beanfest 2002, I think. Was it Waugh that did the 2nd? Does anybody know? Feb 13, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Hey Josh,

There is a one-bolt free variation 10 feet to the right of the A0 pitch. :) Dec 3, 2012
Josh Janes    
So is this route A0 (last pitch) or does it go completely free? Dec 3, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks Clay for the great belay and for leading pitches 1&3 so I could get psyched for pitch 4! You rock man.

Thanks to Dave Merin who replaced the hardware on pitches 1&3. Oct 2, 2012
This climb is badass. It follows a beautiful, natural line up End Pinnacle and there are not too many spots with trivial climbing. As Geir mentioned, if the intimidating fourth pitch is not in the cards, the first 3 pitches are awesome.

Kudos to Geir for:
1) replacing the old hardware

2) having the commitment to head up to the base of the 4th pitch 4 different times

3) having the stones to lead pitch 4, which involves hard, insecure climbing above small, questionable gear right off the belay. I think the first legit good piece was after the solid .11 climbing and 25 feet up.


The Rockfellow Group is truly a special place. Oct 2, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Hahaha thanks Daryl!! We still have to clean up pitch one - there is a some dirt and kitty litter on it, but I think it can be cleaned up really well. Otherwise the climb is in prime shape now. Oct 2, 2012
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
So THAT's what you guys were up to.. :) Seriously, great job on the write up and thanks for submitting this Geir. Big salute to you for the hardware work up there! Thank you ~d Oct 2, 2012