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Routes in Main Wall

5.7 Link Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eminent Domain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Go West Young Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illusion of Prosperity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manifest Destiny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trail of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Riot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FRA: Brad White & Matt Peer Summer 2011-12
Page Views: 1,795 total, 29/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1 – Same start as “Manifest Destiny”. Start at the toe of rock. Climb the slab via the center clean streak to a bolt at 25’. Climb slightly right to a short headwall, joining Illusion of Prosperity at a ledge. Climb flakes and thin cracks up and then left to a tricky step over at the left edge of the headwall onto a slab. Climb the easy slab to the right tree on the big ledge. Continue up the left facing corners above the tree moving slightly right to a two bolt anchor on a nice wide ledge. 5.7 140’

P2 – Follow the thin finger crack up and left across the entire face till the crack fades out at the top of a large low angle left facing groove under short twin finger cracks, belay here on gear. Bring many very small nuts and cams. 5.7 120'

P3 - Climb the right hand finger crack to small overlaps. Move right through overlaps and then straight up a slab to large pine tree belay. 5.6 60’

P4 –Step up right from the pine tree belay to two small trees on the same ledge. Squeeze behind the trees to step up and right onto the rock. Climb up 25’ to a short wall/overlap. Pull this on good edges below a short flake (good gear) on the top. Wander up the slab aiming for a prominent right facing thin flake in the overlaps. Layback a move up the thin flake then step left to good holds pulling two overlaps to the blocky white arête. Follow the arête to the woods. It is possible to finish from here by climbing out right and joining the easy slab to the top of the ledge on Manifest Destiny or just scramble up thru the woods to the top. You can also move left and do a short rappel from trees to the anchors on Old Route then linking anchors to the ground in four more single 70m rope rappels. 80’ 5.7

Location

Main Wall

Protection

Standard Rack
I was informed by Ralph, who seemed intimately familiar with this cliff, that the last pitch of Go West is often not climbed due to it frequently being mossy and wet and so most people rap down when reaching the pine tree belay at the top of P3. It seemed that the wettest part of the last pitch is obscured from the vantage point of the pine tree belay and it so happened that Ralph was rapping down another route and could see how wet it was. I opted to rap.

I also linked P2 and P3 together with a 60M rope with only moderate rope drag. Probably could have extended a little more from the bottom of the twin finger cracks on up. Sep 11, 2017
The finger crack is a phenomenal pitch! It's super easy, maybe even 5.5, but it's fun and is something to cherish and enjoy. The rest of the climb is also quite mellow. Certainly this would be a place to bring new leaders, or easy going climbers who are looking for a fun day in the mountains on some pleasant rock routes. Quite nice. Nov 22, 2015
beach
Portland, ME
 
beach   Portland, ME
 
I'll second peters comments on the second pitch of this climb, phenomenal climbing with great protection the whole way. Bring a bunch of pieces around the red c3 size and lots of micro stoppers for the top portion. If you need some more motivation to go check it out we forgot our nut tool so there is a tiny purple stopper in the middle of the finger crack that should be easy to pop out for whoever wants it. Thanks again to Brad White for giving me the beta on this place. May 3, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.6
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.6
After 33 years of living and climbing in the White Mountains I finally went out to this little cliff. What a gem! A big thanks to Brad and Matt for scoping it out, cleaning it up, and putting in the needed anchors---bravo. Very much like Whitehorse, but a tad steeper and more featured. And talk about features, the finger crack traverse pitch on Go West Young Man is just stunning; one of the most amazing cracks in New Hampshire! Sure, it's easy (I don't think there is a 5.7 move on it), but the rock is very clean, the crack is so crisp it looks like it fractured about last Tuesday, the protection is anywhere you want it (good nuts and tiny to small cams), and the crack just keeps going and going. It is a no-kidding 120-foot finger crack that is between 1/4 inch and 3/4 inch wide for the entire length. We skipped the suggested gear belay a the end of the main part of the crack and just ran the rest of the crack out and then straight up to the big pine tree. This seemed more logical and rope drag was not an issue, even with most of the gear slung with draws. Seriously, I would walk all the way out there just to do this easy pitch again!!! Oct 18, 2014