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Routes in Main Wall

5.7 Link Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eminent Domain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Go West Young Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illusion of Prosperity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manifest Destiny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trail of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Riot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 460 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FRA: Brad White & Matt Peer Summer 2011
Page Views: 1,110 total, 18/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

P1 – Start at the toe of rock. Climb the slab via the center clean streak to a bolt at 25’. Climb to a short headwall, up this (bolt/crux), then left and up to another bolt and a small tree clump belay. 70’ 5.8

P2 – Climb the right side of the large flake to its top at a left curving crack. Step up right to a clean white face with 2 bolts (crux). Climb straight up past a horizontal finger crack and a small black tri-cam pocket to a triangular block. Climb right around the block and up slab above past a bolt to a gear belay at the left end of the large overlap. 140’ 5.8 Medium cams for the belay.

P3 – Stem up above the belay and clip a bolt on the left side of the big overlap. Step left and climb up the slab moving slightly right to the next small overlap. Step over this and continue moving up and right on the slab under the bigger overlap above till 10 feet left of a small clump of trees. Climb straight up over the bulge on white rock (left of an upside-down v-slot) crossing over a thin horizontal crack to join the left slanting dike. Follow the dike left to a spectacular overhanging corner. Layback the corner, (crux 5.8) to a gear belay on the right at a left facing flake. 135’ 5.8 (medium cams for belay)

P4 - Climb straight up the left facing corner above the belay to low angle slabs that are followed to the top of the cliff. 115’ 5.4

Location

Main Wall.

Protection

Standard Rack
I would recommend carrying a double set of cams (mostly for the upper two gear belays) in the #.75 (green) , #1 (red) and #2 (yellow) BD Camalot sizes.
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
The first-pitch rating seems odd, especially considering Robert's comment. My partner and I both thought the pitch was 5.7 and reaching the bolt was no problem at all (even though one of us is 5'2"). And it was a really humid day and the cliff was still quite wet (even the dry parts seemed damp-ish with all the recent rain), so we had to watch where we stepped. Nonetheless, a wonderful little pitch on very nice rock (we continued up Go West Young Man because the rest of Manifest was manifestly drippy). Oct 18, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Did pitch 1 and then linked into Old Route for its P2(great!) and P3. Great link up, as it trades the somewhat less-than-stellar 5.4 P1 of Old Route for the nice, clean rock of "Manifest". One thing was noted, my second is about 5ft 5" and she was unable to even touch the bolt#2 before committing to the "headwall" moves, the opening one of which is pretty height-dependent anyway. I though the sequence about 5.8+, she put it at harder than that. Sep 30, 2014