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White Riot

5.10+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Tom Zimmerman & James Dickson
New Hampshire > WM: Albany Area > White Ledge > 3. Main Wall

Description

This is the sporty route on the steep buttress. From the P1 bolt anchor on Trail of Tears move right to the bolted headwall. Start up on crimps with the crux at the second bolt. Continue up the large flakes past a third bolt and pull the lip on jugs. Finish up the moderate slab with gear options for 30’ to a tree anchor. 60’

Location

The short steep buttress on the right side of the Main Wall

Protection

3 bolts, a #1,2,and 3 camelot could be useful

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon at the belay tree on the top of White Riot.
[Hide Photo] Jon at the belay tree on the top of White Riot.
Jon G making the third clip on his route White Riot with Lauren Bergeron on belay. Photo taking while leading P2 of Old Route.
[Hide Photo] Jon G making the third clip on his route White Riot with Lauren Bergeron on belay. Photo taking while leading P2 of Old Route.
Jon hanging on White Riot's huge holds.
[Hide Photo] Jon hanging on White Riot's huge holds.
rappelling back down to anchor after White Riot
[Hide Photo] rappelling back down to anchor after White Riot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
[Hide Comment] Clipping the 2nd bolt is harder than the climbing. You may be better off just stick clipping it. Nov 3, 2012
Stephen Inman
Ketchum, ID
[Hide Comment] Fun climb nice to have something that steep on this cliff Aug 9, 2019
Brian Nelson
San Diego, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I swallowed my pride and aided on a sling to get the second bolt clipped. Worth it to be able to feel comfortable committing to the fun boulder problem. Massive jugs follow to clip the third bolt, followed by some 1/2/3 cam placements and a 5 easy slab. Chord is a bit crusty but the rappel rings look brand new. It held me fine and im almost part of the 200lb climbing club again. If you can do a 5.10 at Rumney do this, its worth the 20 minutes. Oct 11, 2020