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Routes in East Face

Dorothy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heartless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Over the Rainbow S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wizard, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Marty Hornick, Dean Kisling 1988
Page Views: 536 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A classic stemming problem on the left end of the Oz formation. Originally done on all gear; the line has received 3 retrobolts to protect the upper stemming crux. You will likely welcome the bolts while on route, as you imagine the FA party trying to place dubious micro stoppers from tenuous stances.

The line starts with a bouldery finger crack and flake, protected easily by a small stopper placed high overhead off the deck. Some easier crack and face climbing leads up to a steep round corner. Get in some good gear at the end of the crack (0.75, 1 camalot) and work your way up into the stem/seams. Continue up beautiful, technical stemming for about 30 feet to the anchors.

Location

Left-most route on the main wall, left of the other obvious line Dorothy's Crack.I don't know if this one can easily be set-up for TR, as the anchor bolts are a few feet below the lip.

Protection

Gear to 2", 3 bolts, 2-bolt lower-off anchor.

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