Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Grandeur Buttress Side

Agent Orange T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Corner Flash T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,011 total, 16/month
Shared By: jdberndt on Sep 30, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Climbs through a series of horizontal cracks on vertical to slabby terrain. Nice balancey climb with a variety of small features: mono, undercling, sloper and crimps. Probably tricky to protect on lead. May be missing fixed pin.

Location

Look for series of horizontal cracks left of the slabby arete on Grandeur buttress across from Toxic Shock. I climbed Corner Flash and set a toprope with gear.

Protection

gear to .5 with microcams/ballnuts?

Photos

Craig Gorder
Loa, UT
Craig Gorder   Loa, UT
This is such a fun and unique climb. It's a shame that the (undeserved) "X/R" reputation scares people off. I think anyone with the requisite trad climbing experience to climb at the grade would have no real issue making it safe. It does have a touch of spice, but I'd have a hard time giving it any kind of "danger" grade.

That said, it did make me feel a bit more comfortable anchoring in the belayer for the first two pieces, just to stop any kind of summersault potential down that hill. Jul 6, 2015
The new anchors are solid bombproof stainless steel bolts, and the new location avoids unimpressive dirty climbing at the top. This is definitely not an R rated route, but definitely requires heads up climbing. Unless you are super solid at the grade, it might not be a bad idea to suss out the gear (especially for the first 20 feet) on TR after climbing Corner Flash. Dec 29, 2014
There are new anchors 10ft below the old AO anchors. Oct 4, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Very fun, thoughtful face climbing. Jul 25, 2013