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Routes in Grandeur Buttress Side

A Good First Trad Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Agent Orange T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corner Flash T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delusions of Adequacy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Delusion, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undertow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,270 total · 17/month
Shared By: jdberndt on Sep 30, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: October 8-9 LTW limited access. Details

Description

Climbs through a series of horizontal cracks on vertical to slabby terrain. Nice balancey climb with a variety of small features: mono, undercling, sloper and crimps. Probably tricky to protect on lead. May be missing fixed pin.

Location

Look for series of horizontal cracks left of the slabby arete on Grandeur buttress across from Toxic Shock. I climbed Corner Flash and set a toprope with gear.

Protection

gear to .5 with microcams/ballnuts?

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
Very fun, thoughtful face climbing. Jul 25, 2013
There are new anchors 10ft below the old AO anchors. Oct 4, 2014
The new anchors are solid bombproof stainless steel bolts, and the new location avoids unimpressive dirty climbing at the top. This is definitely not an R rated route, but definitely requires heads up climbing. Unless you are super solid at the grade, it might not be a bad idea to suss out the gear (especially for the first 20 feet) on TR after climbing Corner Flash. Dec 29, 2014
Craig Gorder
Bend, OR
Craig Gorder   Bend, OR
This is such a fun and unique climb. It's a shame that the (undeserved) "X/R" reputation scares people off. I think anyone with the requisite trad climbing experience to climb at the grade would have no real issue making it safe. It does have a touch of spice, but I'd have a hard time giving it any kind of "danger" grade.

That said, it did make me feel a bit more comfortable anchoring in the belayer for the first two pieces, just to stop any kind of summersault potential down that hill. Jul 6, 2015

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