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Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall

Azucar S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bearly Hanging On S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crotalid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty V S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elapsid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder V0-1 4+
It's easy to be brave... S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder V5 6C
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder V3-4 6A+
Niether S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Down Under S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, 2012
Page Views: 705 total, 11/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 27, 2012
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Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details

Description

It's easy to be brave above a bolt.
Try it... See if the old West Virginian adage is true for you too!
Using a sidepull for your right hand balance your way up to 2 big pockets under the roof. Undercling then crimp to get your hands above the roof. Heel hook or thrutch up over the roof. After clearing the roof follow easy ground to the anchors.
v1: variation traverses left under the roof before going up.

Location

Following the cliff band to the right and around the corner from Crotalid, you will come to a section under a huge roof. This is the leftmost of the three bolted routes under the roof. These bolts are easy to spot when you're below them. This route is about 10' left of Dirty V.

Protection

Sport. 3 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A fall from the stance above the roof will bring you close to the ground. Stay brave on the easy ground before the next bolt, or bring a medium sized cam.

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