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Routes in Cabin Boy's Office

Cabin Boys T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chainsaw Massacre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dugh T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lumpy Way, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way of the Wife T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zigidy Zags T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Duffy, Dave Gauley & Kristen Gauley. 1998.
Page Views: 127 total, 2/month
Shared By: Gargano on Sep 25, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A nice mix of splitter fingers and technical face.

Start up a left-leaning finger crack. Clip a bolt and move through a series of balancey overlaps to another short crack. A second bolt protects the finishing moves on the face.

Location

Look for the finger crack left of the wide gash in the middle of the crag.

Protection

Pro to 1.5". Draws.

Bolted anchors.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Definitely a heads-up lead. I placed a small HB Offset leaving the crack to the first bolt and I'm not convinced it would have held a fall. And it's a long way from the first bolt to the next piece of gear. Fun route otherwise. Aug 13, 2017