Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Ron Anderson, et al., March 1979
Page Views: 846 total · 11/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 24, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A bouldery start leads to a hand crack and then a roof. The roof boasts good hand jams with sparse feet as well as a sloping jug to the left. The OW pod exiting the roof provides a further challenge but deep hand jams are there for those who reach. Otherwise, it's probably Fuck Me city, although some lieback beta might work at the lip....

Hero jamming through wide hands in an overhung crack begins after the rest ledge just over the roof. Exit via some jugs to the back set anchors, but watch out for the creaking flake in the crack towards the top!

The route will clean up with more traffic but everything that needs to be solid is, and protection is abundant.


The obvious, East facing hand crack with an offwidth pod above a roof in the North gully


mostly hands up to a 4" Camalot, although larger 5"-6" pieces could be used. Fixe anchors.


Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
I always wondered who did the FA on this one. I led it in the early 2000's and came to the flake above the flaring wide hands only to discover some rotten webbing. I replaced it and rapped off. Never saw any bolted anchors. Maybe they were placed after 2001? Jan 23, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Yup, Ron Anderson claims 'er. Rated it 5.11c instead of what I thought was 5.10c? Dunno who placed the anchors or when. Jan 26, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
My apologies, you rated it the mysterious grade of onsight 5.11. Jackson is right though, this is in no way part of the 5.11 family. I onsighted this while shit faced. Then I top roped it clean in running shoes right after. Pretty sure that wouldn't have been the case on anything close to the grade you claim.

As a head's up, people nowadays usually rate something "5.11" if it is in the solid, harder end of the range. On this site, for instance, "5.11" is between 5.11b and 5.11c when rating a climb. Something to think about when trying to talk climbing in a way others will understand.

Your comments from Supertopo on the FA, for a historical perspective: "this is number 20, in the central upstream crag mentioned in the new North Tahoe Guidebook by John Jackson. At the time i was talking with John about the upcoming guide, i didnt remember finishing it as this was the first attempt in winter of 79. Having talked with a buddy the other day showing him the guide he did indeed remind me that we went back and settled the score. We rated it 5.11, possibly due to only having 1 #4 friend that never "looked good". What can i say,, our helitack pilot KahnHo, had given us some actual THAI-stick..Memories were uhhhhh cloudy back then...

small corner to three foot roof, into flaring OW then finally some deeps hands 5.11- if you will March 1979. He also reminded me we called it "f*ck me"...

edit: guide book rates it 5.10 hrmfff..;-) if you onsight it,, 11 is fare..if you do it in EBs one #4 friend and some large hexes ill buy ya a beer."

Edit: 5.4, Rong? Geeze, have a hissy fit why dontcha?

Edit x3: All this time later, Ron Anderson erased his post I was responding to in this. I don't expect too much honor from that one. Feb 14, 2014
Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
This looks like a fun climb...lulzy! Oct 15, 2014