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Routes in Mount Julian

Donut Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eyes Full of Ghosts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pastries of Unusual Girth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mitch Musci, Luke Terstriep, August 2012
Page Views: 465 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mitch Musci on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is on the "Slab of Pie", the large flatiron-like slab 2 buttresses left of Donut Buttress (this is actually on Terra Tomah). On the left side of the slab, locate a prominent grassy crack system that starts about a pitch off the ground and runs straight up for approximately 100 feet. P1 starts below and slightly right of this crack.

P1 - 5.7 (200 feet) Climb up a moderate slab on white rock for about 50 feet until confronted with a bulge. Place some mediocre gear in a flake out left, then follow crystal knobs through the bulge to another slab. Continue on runout terrain up and right, staying just right of a right-facing corner (5.5 R), then take a finger crack left through a second bulge and set a belay in the corner just below the start of the prominent grassy crack system.

P2 - 5.5 R (160 feet) Angle right around the bulge above the belay, then wander up a featured slab on excellent rock, staying right of the grassy crack system.

P3 - 5.7 (200 feet + simul-climbing) Continue straight up the slab and climb through an easy bulge on buckets. Follow a right-facing corner and stretch the rope out to a belay, or continue simul-climbing on nebulous terrain. I chose to follow a prominent finger seam (5.7), but this can be avoided if desired.

From here, another 200 feet of 3rd through easy 5th class finds the top. Walk off to the right (south) and take the second gully down a grassy tundra ramp back to Doughnut Lake. Better yet, traverse over to Donut Buttress and climb another route.

This route has some great climbing on excellent stone for the first couple pitches, but later it dissolves into nebulous wandering. It is a worthy warmup if you are in the area, hah!

Protection

Standard rack to 3 inches, tricams were useful on the runouts.

Photos

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