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No Utopia

5.11d, Trad, 110 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 19 votes
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Waterfall > 3. The Right Wall

Description

"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to curb my childish idealism or quickly explain the harsher realities of life. I just like saying it these days as I slowly turn into my father.

This curvacious pitch shares the start of Natural Enhancement. Beware the 'in your face' starting moves 5.10+, whether you are leading or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that thing, but it could happen, so heads up.

At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is slightly overhanging and fully engaging.

The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a ton of wires.

Location

Starts about 25' left of No Feelings at a very pointed boulder.

Protection

Single set of fingers, doubles from .5 BD to #2 BD. At least one full set of wires from #2-#10, and a set of offsets in addition are really nice to have as well. Three bolts in the middle. Save a #2 BD and #.75 BD for the top!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Casey N. reeling in the positive holds, and big moves at the top of No Utopia. This section feels quite a bit steeper than it appears here.
[Hide Photo] Casey N. reeling in the positive holds, and big moves at the top of No Utopia. This section feels quite a bit steeper than it appears here.
Casey N. moving into No Utopia. You can place a #.3 and a medium wire at this point to protect the bouldery entrance moves.
[Hide Photo] Casey N. moving into No Utopia. You can place a #.3 and a medium wire at this point to protect the bouldery entrance moves.
No Utopia.
[Hide Photo] No Utopia.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome and protects very well. With rope stretch, a 60 meter rope will just get you back to the pointed boulder at the base. Sep 2, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Waterfall Classic in my book. Another fantastic Mixed Route! Safe yet very exciting! Nov 10, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] It's the best “face” climbing down there for the grade. I've heard it's an awesome onsight, good work Robbie. Nov 11, 2013