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Routes in North Wall

Diamond Slipper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intrigue S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Joy Luck Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Walt Corvington, Alan Amos
Page Views: 127 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dave Baylor on Sep 20, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The name says it all! Locate the lowest pair of anchors on the eastern most side of the north slab(for belay). Run up the easy slab clipping a few bolts if desired heading towards the blankest section of slab in the bowl area. A tricky mantle right off the low angle slab sets the tone for the rest of the climb. Pitch 2: 5.9 looks easy, but keeps you on your toes, at the 3rd bolt dog left, pull a bulge and continue on easy terrain to the summit.

Location

Look for a tree midway up on the northern slab/bowl area. Now look down and to its right at a very clean and smooth section of rock. A suggested way down as there are no rings on these anchors is to scramble down the summit to your right (there's a bolt if you get worried) and find a pair of anchors with rings. Two rope rappel, or eye a pair of intermediate chains for single.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchors (no rap rings).

Photos

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Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It's possible to walk out on the slab from the left side base area of Joy Luck Club and just climb the 5.10a pitch of this route and rap/lower off. Very nice slab pitch with mostly moderate friction moves. Jul 20, 2016