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Routes in South Wall

Beginners Thruch T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dave's Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Do You Want To Live Forever? T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garden Path T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Miss Em T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystery Climb T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Palisades Light Rack Club TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandahl T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Areta T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verdict, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vern Thing T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vixen, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vulcun, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 356 total, 6/month
Shared By: Clif Loucks on Sep 20, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Slightly overhanging arete (~40 feet), located between MYSTERY Climb (8th in sequence on South Wall) and Beginner's Thruch (9th in sequence in Fossum, et al guide-book). Natural arete line that begs to be climbed. Don't use ledges on Thruch. Some loose blocks seem worrisome: handle with care. Sustained angle keeps one's attention at all times. Don't know if I'm FA; no evident signs of previous climbs. Various techniques required: Jams, layback, undercling, crimps, foot-matches, side-to-side switching, and a small but essential Thank-God hold; it's all there.

Location

Arete just Right of Mystery Climb, Left of Beginner's Thruch, on attached square column on South Wall. Large tree at start of trail down from top and/or stone blocks serve as secure anchor points for TR.

Protection

TR Recommended for G Rating; if leading, large Tri-cams & Hex-nuts on slick Sioux quartzite desired. No bolts are currently allowed at Palisades.

Photos

Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
Sam Smolnisky   Custer, SD
Clif - This has been climbed before, just seen as a harder variation to Mystery Climb. Did you end up leading it? Oct 31, 2012