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Morgan

5.12c, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 4 from 28 votes
FA: L Triay, G. Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier, R. Cabessut ('04)
International > Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Sikati Cave

Description

A very steep line pulling through a maze of tufas and good holds up to a thinner, more technical crux just below the anchors. Save energy for the top and go for the onsight!

Location

Immediately right of Mort aux Chèvres, going through the very steep line. Multiple extensions exist.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About half-way through. Approaching the awesome stalactite rest.
[Hide Photo] About half-way through. Approaching the awesome stalactite rest.
The line follows a beautiful forest of stalactites. Anchors are above a small diamond shaped hueco
[Hide Photo] The line follows a beautiful forest of stalactites. Anchors are above a small diamond shaped hueco
Almost at the top of Morgan. What a ride.
[Hide Photo] Almost at the top of Morgan. What a ride.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

 
[Hide Comment] Amazing terrain, one of the steepest at the grade, and very photogenic. BUT, some of the worst bolts I've seen. If this mank was replaced with glue-ins, it would be the best on the island.

Edit to add: bolts replaced in 2017. The huge signature tufa has broken off, grade unchanged. Dec 1, 2017
Derek Plafcan
Golden, co
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb! BUT! As with many steep routes on Kalymnos, this is not equipped with project/perma-draws of any kind. Be prepared to have a second to clean (easiest), or have your work cutout for you while cleaning on lower. The latter option might be harder than the climb. May be worth leaving a few directional biners attached to the old bolts to help while cleaning. Either way, get on this route!!! Sep 17, 2018
Algin Amores
 
[Hide Comment] This rig is special. It could really use some fixed hardware maintenance/love but otherwise, it's amazing. It felt like climbing an easier version of DNA to a sit down rest. And then an intense V4ish boulder problem guards the anchor. Aug 4, 2020
Cherie Yoon
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing! Chill knee bars until the boulder problem crux before the anchor. (last 2 bolts) Both knee pads useful. Oct 26, 2023
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] The boulder problem at the top ain’t too bad if you pick the right hidden holds. Wild route! Also, feels longer then 75 ft Dec 10, 2023