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Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall

Azucar S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bearly Hanging On S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crotalid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty V S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elapsid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder V0-1 4+
It's easy to be brave... S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder V5 6C
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder V3-4 6A+
Niether S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Down Under S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, Andrea Long 2011
Page Views: 2,204 total, 35/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012
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Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details

Description

Super fun and varied climbing. Start on the white face and climb up slopers to some good holds past a bulge. Continue straight up the slab onto the grassy ledge. From the grassy ledge pull the overhang (bolt to your left). Follow the line of bolts up the awesome, gently overhanging face to the anchors. Clip the anchors, but you're not done until you're looking over the top!

Location

About 30' to climbers right of the previous route. On a white face left of a blocky, low left facing corner. The first bolt is the color of the rock and can be tricky to see at first. Very worth looking for.

Protection

Sport. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt rap anchor. If your second is going to top rope this route be sure to extend the anchors. Also, be aware that the bolt just under the roof, and the bolt above it are fairly close together; be cautious not to accidentally Z clip!

Photos

Edek Falkowski
Buffalo, NY
 
Edek Falkowski   Buffalo, NY
 
The crux seemed to be the sloper slab at the bottom. Epic route otherwise! Just make sure to let it dry after rain before crushing.

I didn't see any poison ivy on the ledge, but being wary of it wouldn't be a bad idea. Nov 20, 2016
the grassy ledge also has a number of other plants, including poison ivy, so watch out if you tend to be allergic! Jun 10, 2014
Erik Pikas
Las Vegas, NV
 
Erik Pikas   Las Vegas, NV
 
Glad you liked the route Joe. I don't think it's necessary to do a sidepull at the roof though. Nov 1, 2012
Great Route! Just make sure it didn't rain the day before if you want to climb it.
I'm a little concerned that the huge crux sidepull on the roof won't be there for long Oct 22, 2012