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Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall

Azucar S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bearly Hanging On S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crotalid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty V S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elapsid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder V0-1 4+
It's easy to be brave... S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder V5 6C
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder V3-4 6A+
Niether S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Down Under S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, Richard Spoor, 2011
Page Views: 1,644 total · 22/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012

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Access Issue: Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details


Climb up the easy ledgey section and do a balancey move onto the face. Continue up to the big ledge and follow bolts up to the alcove. Climb up to the roof of the alcove (bolts to your left) and figure out the trick to pulling over the roof. Continue up the slabbey face above to the anchors. Don't get suckered into following the broken section on the right of the alcove, this is 5.6ish, but you can't clip the bolts from it.


10' right of Bearly Hanging On Direct.


Sport. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Ross Weller
New York, New York
Ross Weller   New York, New York
Solid route on quality rock. Stay honest and follow the line of the bolts. Needs to see some more traffic or a good spring cleaning but worth the hike. Apr 30, 2014
Riverdale, NY
cPay   Riverdale, NY
whoever bolted the anchor should be careful. the close proximity to 4 unused(old) bolts can compromise the rock. i'd suggest placing a couple glue-ins higher May 8, 2014
Erik Pikas
Las Vegas, NV
Erik Pikas   Las Vegas, NV
CPay, I think you must be referring to the anchor on Elapsid which is just to the right of Neither. The newly placed "retro bolts" on the anchor are 5.75" bolts. Much deeper than the originals. The anchor on Neither is also (2) 5.75" bolts, but there are no old bolts near it. May 13, 2014
Erik Pikas
Las Vegas, NV
Erik Pikas   Las Vegas, NV
We finally added chains to the anchor of Neither. Also, per feedback from several climbers we moved a couple of the upper bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer. May 29, 2014

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