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Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall

Azucar S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bearly Hanging On S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crotalid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty V S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elapsid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder V0-1 4+
It's easy to be brave... S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder V5 6C
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder V3-4 6A+
Niether S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Down Under S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, Richard Spoor, 2011
Page Views: 1,076 total, 17/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012
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Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details

Description

So named because of the bear that bore witness the first ascent. Climb a rounded arete (bolt) past a bulge and onto a slopey ledge. Use a long sling to clip the second bolt, and step right along the ledge. Climb up to the huge ledge below the roof. Pull the roof on the right, at the left facing corner. Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging rock to the top. Bolted anchor. A variation continues straight up the arete to the big ledge.

Location

About 30' right of Azucar, past a mossy short cliff. Start below a grey bolt on the large rounded arete at the left edge of the main wall. There is wide broken crack about 4' left of the arete.

Protection

Sport. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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Ross Weller
New York, New York
 
Ross Weller   New York, New York
 
Challenging, bouldery move up and over the arete followed by nice slab to main ledge. The roof section has great exposure and some positive holds right where you really start to want them. Good stance at the anchors and well placed bolts. Apr 30, 2014
Erik Pikas
Las Vegas, NV
 
Erik Pikas   Las Vegas, NV
 
The first bolt was placed with the intention of climbing the arĂȘte. At one point you do go slightly left, but stay out of the chimney to the left. It's dirty, and not much fun, but the arĂȘte is really fun and takes some figuring. The second bolt is really camouflaged; I even have to look hard to see it, but it's there. You can clip it very comfortably from standing on the ledge, then you're meant to step right along the ledge and continue up directly above the direct start. Apr 29, 2014
Getting to the first slopey ledge was the crux for me. Felt solid 5.10 if you use the arete only. Though it felt reasonable to me, to use the other side of the wide crack and chimney up to the ledge. This lowers the difficulty to somewhere around 5.8, but also involves high ground fall potential.
The upper roof section felt more like 5.9 to me.
My favourite climb of the day since I wasn't able to make it past the thin face moves on Azucar and Crotalid was soaking Oct 22, 2012