Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, Andrea Long 2011
Page Views: 1,209 total · 16/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012
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You & This Route


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Access Issue: Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details

Description

Short but sweet! Some tricky/ balancy moves up the steep face lead to the massive roof. Clip the bolt at the top of the face then work out the overhang to clip the chain perma-draw. Pull the huge overhang and step up and right onto a ledge. From here you can basically stand up and clip the chains.
An easier variation (called Sweet & Low) goes up the dirty offwidth to the left of the start, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot.

Location

The first, and farthest left bolted route here. You can see the anchors from the logging road. Start below the massive overhang about 10 feet right of a huge inside corner with a dirty chimney.

Protection

Sport. 3 bolts to an 2 bolt anchor. It's short, but you won't be disappointed. An optional #4 Camalot protects the easier variation.

Photos

tk1085
 
tk1085  
 
I Finally got this climb after maybe 7-10 tries. very thin and un-obvious face to very fun roof. with a trade marked butt jam somewhere in the middle it is possible without the butt jam i'm told. Oct 25, 2012