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Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall

Azucar S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bearly Hanging On S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crotalid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty V S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elapsid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder V0-1 4+
It's easy to be brave... S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder V5 6C
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder V3-4 6A+
Niether S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Down Under S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Erik Pikas, Andrea Long 2011
Page Views: 1,110 total, 18/month
Shared By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012
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Parking near private residences. Please be considerate. Details

Description

Short but sweet! Some tricky/ balancy moves up the steep face lead to the massive roof. Clip the bolt at the top of the face then work out the overhang to clip the chain perma-draw. Pull the huge overhang and step up and right onto a ledge. From here you can basically stand up and clip the chains.
An easier variation (called Sweet & Low) goes up the dirty offwidth to the left of the start, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot.

Location

The first, and farthest left bolted route here. You can see the anchors from the logging road. Start below the massive overhang about 10 feet right of a huge inside corner with a dirty chimney.

Protection

Sport. 3 bolts to an 2 bolt anchor. It's short, but you won't be disappointed. An optional #4 Camalot protects the easier variation.

Photos

tk1085
 
tk1085  
 
I Finally got this climb after maybe 7-10 tries. very thin and un-obvious face to very fun roof. with a trade marked butt jam somewhere in the middle it is possible without the butt jam i'm told. Oct 25, 2012