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UFO 60 6b
5.10c,
Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: C. Levy 1990
International
> Europe
> Switzerland
> Weesen
> Sektor Betlispfeiler
Access Issue: Betlispfeiler closed.
Details
Local politician has placed an unofficial (but fairly official-looking) sign saying climbing prohibited on this sector, effective fall 2012. 'Danger of rockfall'... for whom, not sure.
While not legally binding, please think twice before risking everyone's access by climbing here.
Description
The classic line on the Betlispfeiler crag.
Approach:
Abseil down from the tree below the parking area (2x 60), then start 5 m to the right of where you land.
P1 6a - trundle up a path, anchor w chains. Marked as "5a" in one guidebook, not exactly!
P2 6b - Move right and up blunt arete to nice face climbing.
-> 6c variation goes more or less straight up from the belay. Well-protected and short crux.
P3 6a - Move up and right into the gully, climbing inside the fin.
P4 5c - Blocky and fun moves. Be careful of loose rock.
Protection
Well-bolted, but small rack recommended.
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