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Fire and Sage
5.11-,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 22
votes
FA: Max Tepfer, Wally Fox, 9/17/2012
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
An excellent variation to Wengerbanger, this route traverses right at a horizontal break at two thirds height to access a rapidly widening fingers corner. The traverse is likely the crux and the climbing only eases the higher you go. If you hand traverse, it's probably mid 5.11 while foot traversing will knock the grade down a notch. (but is reachier) The climbing is excellent from bottom to top and should not be missed!
Location
Starts up Wengerbanger. (right of U3)
Protection
Gear to 2.5".
![Wengerbanger is the wider crack in the center of the photo. Fire and Sage starts up this and cuts right high on the route.]()
[Hide Photo] Wengerbanger is the wider crack in the center of the photo. Fire and Sage starts up this and cuts right high on the route.
![Randy Taylor making the tenuous traverse.]()
[Hide Photo] Randy Taylor making the tenuous traverse.
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