Gank'd and Slayed
WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2801 ft, Grade V|
|FA:||John Kelley and Clint Helander|
|Page Views:||882 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||clint helander on Sep 17, 2012|
|Admins:||Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer|
DescriptionFrom the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).
Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).
The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.
Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.
Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.
A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.