Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount Yukla

Gank'd and Slayed WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow
History of Things to Come T WI6 M7 R
Most People are DJ's T WI3 M4 Steep Snow R
No Call No Show T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5 M6 Steep Snow X
North Couloir/Baranow Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-
Positive Side of Negative Thinking, The T WI4 M4 Steep Snow
West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
Type: Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2801 ft, Grade V
FA: John Kelley and Clint Helander
Page Views: 882 total · 13/month
Shared By: clint helander on Sep 17, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


From the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).

Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).

The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.

Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.

Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.

A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.


Northwest face of Mount Yukla.


Full alpine rack to #2 cams, full set of nuts, pins and beaks! 8-12 ice screws.


More About Gank'd and Slayed

Printer-Friendly Guide