Type: Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2801 ft, Grade V
FA: John Kelley and Clint Helander
Page Views: 1,001 total · 13/month
Shared By: clint helander on Sep 17, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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From the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).

Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).

The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.

Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.

Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.

A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.


Northwest face of Mount Yukla.


Full alpine rack to #2 cams, full set of nuts, pins and beaks! 8-12 ice screws.