Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
More like "Lori's Burly, Sustained, High-Quality, Awesome Layback".
A beautiful left-facing corner on the left-most edge of the Premier Buttress. Scramble up behind a prominent 20' tall fir tree to the base of the corner. The route starts at finger size and eventually opens up to hands. The wall slants away to the left, giving the whole route an overhanging feel. Good exposure and excellent protection opportunities. Very sustained, with a solitary rest stance at about 1/3 height. Ends at a bolted anchor atop a ledge.
Rumor has it that additional bolted pitches have been added to take the route to the top of the Premier Buttress, but this information is unavailable.
Left-most route on the Premier Buttress. Scramble uphill about 100' up a gully to the left of the toe of the buttress (near the Premier Route). The route starts behind an obvious fir tree. A single 60M rope is sufficient for the rappel off the shoulder of the buttress (~80').
Double cams from #1 TCU to #3 Camalot. Triples in .75 and 1 Camalots might be a good idea if you are leading at your limit. 2 bolt rap anchor.
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Richard Shore
5.10
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[Hide Comment] I hadn't heard anything about this route before getting on it, nor had I heard of anyone who's actually done it. I was awestruck when I first saw it. IMO, this is one of the better crack pitches in the portal. Lots of strenuous laybacking and jamming. A neglected classic.
Sep 17, 2012
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melonhead
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[Hide Comment] This thing is hard.
Jan 11, 2016
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David German
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[Hide Comment] Very sustained, as noted with one rest 1/3 way up. Crux is above the rest. There are two more pitches (bolted) above the belay. The second pitch is 9 bolts and goes at about 5.10 - steep friction. The bolts are further apart than most sport routes, typical of what you might expect at Whitney portal. The 2nd pitch ends at the end of pitch 3 for Premier buttress. The third pitch, out and left of premier and also primarily slab, has 4 bolts and some gear placements, shares a belay with the last rap station for Premier buttress (end of pitch 4). If you go to the top, you need two ropes to rappel or use the beta from Premier to descend one of the various options (rap higher up to the left or top out and walk off).
May 28, 2022
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