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Routes in Premier Buttress

Climb Well and Live T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Curtain Call T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Della's Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Girl Shaped Love Drug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lori's Little Layback T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phishing Opener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phoenix, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 560 total · 8/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 17, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details

Description

More like "Lori's Burly, Sustained, High-Quality, Awesome Layback".

A beautiful left-facing corner on the left-most edge of the Premier Buttress. Scramble up behind a prominent 20' tall fir tree to the base of the corner. The route starts at finger size and eventually opens up to hands. The wall slants away to the left, giving the whole route an overhanging feel. Good exposure and excellent protection opportunities. Very sustained, with a solitary rest stance at about 1/3 height. Ends at a bolted anchor atop a ledge.

Rumor has it that additional bolted pitches have been added to take the route to the top of the Premier Buttress, but this information is unavailable.

Location

Left-most route on the Premier Buttress. Scramble uphill about 100' up a gully to the left of the toe of the buttress (near the Premier Route). The route starts behind an obvious fir tree. A single 60M rope is sufficient for the rappel off the shoulder of the buttress (~80').

Protection

Double cams from #1 TCU to #3 Camalot. Triples in .75 and 1 Camalots might be a good idea if you are leading at your limit. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10
Richard Shore  
  5.10
I hadn't heard anything about this route before getting on it, nor had I heard of anyone who's actually done it. I was awestruck when I first saw it. IMO, this is one of the better crack pitches in the portal. Lots of strenuous laybacking and jamming. A neglected classic. Sep 17, 2012
This thing is hard. Jan 11, 2016

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