Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Scott Peterson, Rick McDonald, Rhonda Peterson
Page Views: 2,077 total · 26/month
Shared By: Billcoe on Sep 14, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Scott Peterson (Plaidman) did this route ground up. Sometimes Plaidman was solo, sometimes getting Rhonda or Rick to belay. Rick and Scott came back and freed it afterwards with Ricky snagging the leads on the cruxes and cruising them. Route is well bolted as the bolts are sturdy 1/2 x 5-1/2 Stainless steel and not runout. but pro is recommended for the first 60 feet which is a cruiser 5.7. A single 60 meter is all you need to rappel off.

The rock is solid, sort of an andesitic cross between Smith Rock Welded Tuft and Maple Canyon cobbles. Rumor I'd heard is that it's the best route on the rock! (only 2 *cough* routes on it at this time)

Location

Directions are on the main page same as the Becky route. Access the route as if you would be doing the Becky route, except head towards the left (East) side instead of the right/behind. The top of the route is clearly visible from your car Down on the road- so just drive up the road till you see it and walk up to it.

Protection

22 Draws and or long slings, 60m rope

Photos

daricouv Dugger
Vancouver, WA
daricouv Dugger   Vancouver, WA
Just to clarify the directions to BROTHER MIKE.

Driving access is as to the Steeple. (BTW, I never saw the Steeple from the car - maybe the summer tree growth is thicker now since 2012).

Now this is where it gets kind of tough. Like the directions say, "head uphill". We came downhill upon return, but did not go up this way. It would be nice if the "regulars" tagged their route so that a trail can be created.

We may have completely missed the directions "just drive up the road till you see it and walk up to it." Consider this way (someone can confirm if my assumption is correct). Instead of going on the overgrown road to the left of the turnaround, look for a small plank arrow hammered on a tree, near the parking area, in the direction of the Steeple. Then just start hiking up! Good luck - hopefully there is no devils club or willows . . .

Here's how we came down, with the directions starting from the bottom: Once you park at the turn around spot, hike the overgrown road on the left, until you see a culvert on the right - about 100 yards. The culvert is less obvious on the left. A couple of yards beyond that, look for a spot to clamber up and out of the ditch on the left.

If you keep going uphill, you may go up across a gully and then you'll hit a huge patch of devil's club, to at least five feet high. Yes, bring a pruner. Shears aren't as useful, but it does work well as a pick in the dirt that you may encounter. (IF we come again, we would either bring an ice axe or strong walking poles.)

After going through the devil's club (you may see where people have pruned), you'll go through a willow thicket (straight uphill). When you break through the willow thicket, there's a very brief old growth trees, to a steep grassy hill and a small section of rock to solo. Then it's up to the base on very loose steep dirt. There really is no safe belay platform. It's narrow, steep, loose dirt.

Instead of using the crack at the first pitch, there are 3 huge bolts to the hanging belay further up, solo up an interesting steep step like gully to once again, steep dirt belay "platform."

This is a great hiking adventure! Jul 24, 2017
Paul L
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Paul L   Portland, OR
  5.10-
There are now 2 bolts on the first pitch and a rack isn't really necessary. We carried a small rack and ended up placing nothing and left it hanging at the P1 anchor. Not sure when the bolts went in, but they are there. You can see the P1 anchors from the right side of the gulley coming up, the 2 bolts are climbers left, sort of around a corner from where you may first think to start up.

Thought this was a really fun route in an amazing setting. May 21, 2018
Alex Fisher
Portland, Oregon
 
Alex Fisher   Portland, Oregon
 
We climbed this a couple of days ago, and I don't usually leave comments but figured it may help for this one. The driving directions are pretty spot-on.. and you could even just open the pin location from Mountain Project in your GPS and follow it to the parking area described online here.

However, we found no semblance of any approach trail whatsoever. We were able to locate the culvert down the overgrown logging road and also the small plank arrow described by Daricouv below. Both approaches were severely overgrown with devils club. We opted for cutting into the brush near the culvert. We just started hiking uphill, whacking through pricker bushes along the way, until we got our first glimpse of the face.

I'd recommend a machete to help blaze a trail, and also pants and boots. Don't make my mistake of thinking shorts and Chacos are good approach attire :)

The climb itself was very interesting, and certainly an adventure. To avoid giving away all of the excitement, I'll just leave a couple of hopefully helpful comments. For P1, we didn't see any bolts, but also placed very little gear: slung a horn and placed 2 cams total (a 0.4/0.5 and a #1). The rest of the route is heavily bolted, with just a small run-out at the top before the final anchor. We brought about 12 alpines and 12 sport draws, which seemed about right.

Be very careful of loose rock/marginal holds. My partner and I both pulled off rocks about the size of a human head while climbing on P2/P3. At least the belay stations are mostly out of the line of fire. I agree that parts of the rock feel solid, but as a whole the climb felt a bit insecure given what we were pulling off the route.

Definitely an adventure climb, and an easy half day trip out of Portland. I agree with the 10- rating and the setting is pretty spectacular. Jun 25, 2018