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Routes in First Pew

Altar Boy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elmo Amber Alert T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Features on a Slabscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Georgia Style T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loose Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New York Reload TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 2 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 4 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 315 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wayne Roy
Page Views: 445 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details

Description

This is a line that has some interesting sections that will keep you on your toes. From a distance, the crack feature up higher is distinctive and calls out to those who listen.

P1. Just up and around the left side of Pulpit Rock, you can find a water streak that will run after a good rain. Climb fun, easy terrain on light protection. To the right of the water streak is a bolt perhaps 50 feet up. Shortly after that, the rock steepens a bit and the pro is scarce. This is a no-fall zone. With the newness of the line, care is in order as you face climb on less-than-straightfoward holds to a rest. Continue up on easier ground to a large tree with cord and a big rap ring (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). 5.7 R, 130'.

P2. Traverse out right and go up. Make a slightly delicate traverse left on so-so gear. Move up above a small bulge into a wide groove. Climb up to the double cracks. Jam if you are good, lieback if you are not as good, and watch your skin as you fight past this crux. Easier ground with a nice finger crack gets you to the final section. Angle up slightly left following a crack to the top of the rock. Belay from a tree. 5.9+, 185'.

Scramble up and left to a tiny downclimb and the gully between the First and Second Pews.

Location

This goes up past a bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) to an obvious crack just up and left of the little amphitheater behind and left of Pulpit Rock.

Protection

Mostly cams green Alien to a #3 Camalot and a #9 hex. Double #1 Camalots are nice at the crux.

Photos

If done with Elmo's Amber Alert give it 3 stars. Nate A and Pale Dale added 2 new lines to the left:
"Saber Rattler" 5.8 R, starts above the piled stone boundary marker, and "Hermit Kingdom" 5.8 R climbs the thin, right-facing corner left of Leo's "Features...." Apr 6, 2013
wroy  
I called it Georgia Style, and the one 20' to the left with one bolt 90' up is called Southern Hospitality, 5.8. Sep 14, 2012