Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Harrison, et al.
Page Views: 3,380 total · 44/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


170 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

To the left of Ragged Edges is this tasty lookin' crack system that ends at the two-bolt anchor of Ragged Edges. This is where the route ends... and is 5.9. Good pro all the way on excellent holds. Hardly any crack climbing until... well, you'll figure it out.

The continuation of the original route after the 5.9 crux (without clipping the bolts on Ragged Edge's anchor) moves left through two bolts and some spicy 5.11 climbing.

Tick this here route if ya only do the 5.9.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Having done this variation dozens of times over the years, I dont think I could bring myself to call this 5.9. Its 5.10a, imho- especially in Red Rock. Sep 15, 2012
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.10a
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.10a
Agreed, I've climbed it a couple of times and it is certainly 5.10a. Oct 25, 2012
Canon
  5.10a
Canon  
  5.10a
Definitely a .10! Great gear all the way. Got up onto the ledges just left of the anchor for ragged edges and thought I was home free. ERRONEOUS! Dripped sweat all over working up the courage to step right across the greasy, sweat-stained slab to the anchor. Protection can be placed at your feet - .3 camalot. Dec 13, 2012
mmacelhi
Gunks
  5.10
mmacelhi   Gunks
  5.10
echo the other comments. harder than other 10a's i did in RR (DOWT, etc.) and way harder than the 9's (Sensuous Mortician, Magellenic Cloud, Above and Beyond, etc) its 5.9 until its time to go right. i fished a small nut in a slot at ankle height once i stopped whining. i feel i was maybe a little too far left onto the regular climb and you could come straight up into that little slot which would reduce the traverse. really fun climbing! May 7, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8+
5.9+ and not harder than DoWT. There is some beta at the crux that makes this feel easier. Going left to a "jug" left of the crack instead of going right is helpful. This may seem counterintuitive and somewhat "spicy" but that's what has worked for me and I've done this half a dozen times. Tick it at 10a if you want but I think Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe are more 10a than this. May 9, 2014
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10-
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.10-
I respectfully disagree with Andy's grade assessment on this first pitch. Difficulty feels closer to a Gin Ricky or Wholesome Fullback than Nadia's Nine or any of the .10a I have climbed on the Velvet Wall...but hey, what's in a grade? ;-) Aug 7, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10-
Fun way to do the first pitch of ragged edges. Does seem a tad harder than 5.9. May 30, 2015
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
 
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
 
protects perfectly with just nuts Nov 6, 2016