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Survived By

5.13 PG13, Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: Dakota Walz, Dec '17
Colorado > Ft Collins > Horsetooth Moun… > Outer Space Wall

Description

This line is a steep gauntlet requiring a mastery of straight in crack technique, sporty trickery, and laser focus.

A short scramble leads to the base of the main fissure where a poor #3 should keep you off the ground. Utilize both solid and rattly hands, rings, and fingers until the obvious crack begins to wane at an intermediate anchor.

Past that anchor, the severity gets turned up through easier 5.12 crimping. The precariously balanced boulder that was once far above and to the right, is now almost just beneath you and getting closer with every move. A tricky, yet crucial, #2 placement helps protect this a bit, but consider padding the boulder gritstone style as well. A quick crimp battle through the bulge is protected by a high bolt and a short runout on easy terrain gives way to the final anchor.

Toprope access for the crux is made clean and easy by stick clipping the intermediate anchors from atop the boulder. TR access for the full route can be set up from the summit by hiking up the east side of the feature and utilizing a bolted anchor to reach the top of the route.

Location

A detailed approach can be found in the climbing area map feature.

This is the main fracture splitting the massive overhanging wall on the south face of Outer Space Rock, under the balanced boulder. When coming in from the north of Horsetooth, it won't look like much until you're under it, but from the south side approach, it's pretty obvious.

Protection

Singles 0.4-#3
Doubles 0.75, #1, & #2 (give or take)
A few quickdraws

History

Geoff Slater reportedly first aided this route sometime in the early '90s. Aside from Pat Goodman and a few others attempting free ascents, the route sat mostly unappreciated. Over two decades later, the crack was rediscovered by Ryan Nelson. Free ascents were attempted once again by him and Ben Scott. Later Collin Turbet, Ryan Gajewski, and Dakota Walz picked up where they left off until it finally went free in the winter of 2017.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Above the head kneebar under the intermediate anchors.
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Photo: Jonathan Trites.
[Hide Photo] Above the head kneebar under the intermediate anchors. Photo: Jonathan Trites.
Collin transitioning through the kneebar.
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PC: Matthew Eckelberg.
[Hide Photo] Collin transitioning through the kneebar. PC: Matthew Eckelberg.
Peter Candell on Survived By.
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The photo is from the north summit of Horsetooth Rock.
[Hide Photo] Peter Candell on Survived By. The photo is from the north summit of Horsetooth Rock.
Start the pump.
[Hide Photo] Start the pump.
Below the line.
[Hide Photo] Below the line.
Looking at the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the second pitch.
Outer Space Wall with Survived By in yellow.
[Hide Photo] Outer Space Wall with Survived By in yellow.
The angle is steep.
[Hide Photo] The angle is steep.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Demyanek
Baltimore, MD
[Hide Comment] So sick that if finally went down! Nice work, Dakota! Apr 6, 2018
Dakota from North Dakota
Boise, ID
  5.13 PG13
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Dylan. It was certainly not without effort! Apr 7, 2018
Jeffrey Snyder
Flagstaff, AZ--> FoCo, CO
[Hide Comment] Finding wasn't too tricky although I'm wondering which is the best approach? Ain't no quick jaunt via southridge TR....

Did you ever hit said grit boulder?.... Carrying a pad would be quite a bonus point. Sep 8, 2018
Dakota from North Dakota
Boise, ID
  5.13 PG13
[Hide Comment] Snyder,

I prefer the trail that follows the west side of Horsetooth if only because it's quieter and prettier. No matter which way you take, it won't be a quick jaunt.

No one I know of has hit the boulder, so I can't say with 100% certainty that you would or wouldn't. We had it "padded" with a haul bag stuffed with jackets just in case though. Sep 8, 2018