Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Dakota Walz, Dec '17
Page Views: 2,374 total · 27/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This line is a sustained, steep gauntlet requiring a mastery of straight in crack technique, sporty trickery, and laser focus.

A short scramble leads to the base of the main fissure where a poor #3 should keep you off the ground. From here, the pump factor is on all the way to the final anchors. Utilize both solid and rattly hands, rings, and fingers until the obvious crack begins to wane.

Here an inspiring combination of jams, technical footwork, and crimps come to a crescendo of delicate and exciting movement under an intermediate anchor.

Past that anchor, the severity gets turned up through easier 5.12 crimping. The precariously balanced boulder that was once far above and to the right, is now almost just beneath you and getting closer with every move. A tricky, yet crucial, #2 placement helps protect this a bit, but consider padding the boulder gritstone style as well. A quick crimp battle through the bulge is protected by a high bolt and after the final big moves are thrown, a short runout on easy terrain gives way to the final anchor.

Toprope access for the crux is made clean and easy by stick clipping the intermediate anchors from atop the boulder. TR access for the full route can be set up from the summit by hiking up the east side of the feature and utilizing a bolted anchor to reach the top of the route.

Location

A detailed approach can found in the climbing area map feature.

This is the main fracture splitting the massive overhanging wall on the south face of Outer Space Rock, under the balanced boulder. When coming in from the west of Horsetooth, it won't look like much until you're under it, but from the north side approach, it's pretty obvious.

Protection

0.4-#3; doubles in 0.75, #1, & #2 (give or take); and at least two quickdraws.

History

Geoff Slater reportedly first aided this route sometime in the early '90s. Aside from Pat Goodman and a few others attempting free ascents, the route sat mostly unappreciated. Over two decades later, the crack was rediscovered by Ryan Nelson. Free ascents were attempted once again by him and Ben Scott. Later Collin Turbet, Ryan Gajewski, and Dakota Walz picked up where they left off until it finally went free in the winter of 2017.

In the past, the difficulty has been suggested as high as 5.13+, but this has only seen one ascent.

Photos