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Routes in Chair Bivy Buttress

Blades of Crass T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chair Bivy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V2 5+
Two Dead Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: FA: old school, FL: Stewart Korte and Ryan Strong
Page Views: 393 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Strong on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route follows the edges up the face just to the right of the Chair Bivy Crack. Starts out steep, then gently slabs out for the upper portion of the route.

Continuous 5.9 climbing up the entire feature. The route is more technical than it is pumpy. Really enjoyable little face that actually protects.

Location [Suggest Change]

Face just to the right of the Chair Bivy Crack. Start the route at the right side corner, work left , work right, follow your pro to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Best bet is to HP this route. The gear is there, but it is only apparent when it is actually right at your face.

Protected adequately with a ball nut, a few micro cams, and a offset nut to protect the crux.

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Cool! Totally under realized little piece of rock up at West Bluff. Maybe not anymore. Nice! Sep 13, 2012
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
We were just talking the other day about how cool this route is. I am hoping it sees some action this upcoming season! 3 star !!! Mar 17, 2013
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
Also the Chair Bivy Crack. SO GOOD! Mar 17, 2013
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
There is now a big ole pine tree branch hanging directly in the way of the upper part of this great climb. One of the big pine trees toppled over above this buttress and now one of its big branches hangs onto this face. Just say'n.
This is one of the better climbs on the West Bluff if you ask me. The rock on this buttress is even more stellar quartzite then all the other stellar quartzite. This a super fun climb.... the holds are perfect and the movement is awesome! Nov 7, 2016

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