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Routes in Bellefonte Quarry

Coleman's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Crackitan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Hand Eliminate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manufractured S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voices From The Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,973 total, 31/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Private Property - Closed Details

Description

Zig-zagging finger crack at the far right of the main wall. Old guidebook stated that "your second reason for your existance as a climber is to climb this route." Start with very small fingers (tips) on a steep but just under vertical wall. You may have to clean some dirt out of the lower crack to protect well. The crack zig zags providing rests at the short horizontals. The crack widens from tips down low to fingerlock prior to topping out.

Protection

Double set of wires including offsets and rps and single rack to a #1 camalot.

Photos

With decreased traffic this climb has gotten a little dirty. The leader may want both a toothbrush and a nut tool to clean out some of the grime from the crack. It definitely helps with gear placement and some of the smaller tips jams and crimps. Dec 3, 2013
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
This climb is truly one of the best and most fun cracks you will find anywhere. Still on one of my top 5 climbs of all time and I have been climbing for 25 years. It's a damn shame that this area has been closed. I do recall that the top of this climb has killer hand jams so bring at least a #1 camalot or two. That's if anyone gets to climb it again. Jan 1, 2013