[Hide Comment] Once you find all the holds at the top, it's not too bad - just grab a few razor-sharp crimps and pull really hard. However, most of the beginning of the route is a jughaul compared to Neanderthal Dudes and especially Alien Sex. I heard over the years that some hold broke, so didn't bother trying it. Too bad, because it's by far the best route on this wall. Very fun and actually feels like sport climbing, since you are grabbing holds, unlike on Alien Sex, where you are greasing off tiny crystals while squinting up looking for the next rugosity that will shred your skin. Jun 1, 2015

[Hide Comment] Incredible climb! Fun, easyish climbing to an 11b crux followed by more easy climbing to a full on v5 boulder problem. I heard some holds broke at the crux making this 5.12+? Can anyone confirm? Jul 13, 2018

[Hide Comment] It looks like someone added anchors to this thing before the razor crimp crux.

Given the dramatic change in difficulty after these bolts and comments about broken holds - I honestly felt was a better setup but I would hope the modification was blessed by the FA.

Harder cruxes than Made in Japan (excluding the original finish) but less sustained. Jul 20, 2019

[Hide Comment] I added an anchor at the top of the 5.11 climbing on PT. Climbing to the first rap Anchor is known as 'barking pumpkin' because where would they might be giants be without frank zappa?... The harder exit still exists as does the original anchor. I felt the lower section was worthy of its own anchor. You can still climb the original route at 12b/c. Or rap from the end of the 5.11 section. I also replaced 1st, 4th and last bolt of the 5.11 section with new SS 1/2" bolts. I established this route in the late 80's and felt the lower section was pretty fun. Not many people climbed on it since the top was around v4/5. As to the 'broken holds on the top crux' I don't believe there are any broken holds the exit climbs as it always has, it's just harder and out of character with lower section hence the name.... don welsh Jul 23, 2019

[Hide Comment] Not a 12c climber at the moment so I appreciate the lower anchor! Great climbing on this portion of the route and would put it around 11b/c climbing through the crux. Anyone else have thoughts on grade? May 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] I Really enjoyed the 5.11 section of this route. I could see it as 11b. Maybe 11c. Look forward to working the top section soon. Jul 13, 2020

[Hide Comment] Added the 11b/c anchor option as its own route: mountainproject.com/route/1…. Figure this way more people may give it a shot. Loved it! Jun 16, 2021