Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Don Welsh, late 80's
Page Views: 803 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kyle Townsend on Sep 11, 2012 with updates from don welsh
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Long, sustained technical face route.

Location

First route right of Neanderthal Dudes (11d), start from the base rather than on top of the slab.

Protection

9 bolts to fixed anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Vlad S
  5.12b
Vlad S  
  5.12b
Once you find all the holds at the top, it's not too bad - just grab a few razor-sharp crimps and pull really hard. However, most of the beginning of the route is a jughaul compared to Neanderthal Dudes and especially Alien Sex. I heard over the years that some hold broke, so didn't bother trying it. Too bad, because it's by far the best route on this wall. Very fun and actually feels like sport climbing, since you are grabbing holds, unlike on Alien Sex, where you are greasing off tiny crystals while squinting up looking for the next rugosity that will shred your skin. Jun 1, 2015
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
  5.12c
Tim Iwako   Davis, CA
  5.12c
Incredible climb! Fun, easyish climbing to an 11b crux followed by more easy climbing to a full on v5 boulder problem. I heard some holds broke at the crux making this 5.12+? Can anyone confirm? Jul 13, 2018