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Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Don Welsh, late 80's
Page Views: 778 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kyle Townsend on Sep 11, 2012 with updates from don welsh
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


Long, sustained technical face route.


First route right of Neanderthal Dudes (11d), start from the base rather than on top of the slab.


9 bolts to fixed anchors.


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Vlad S
Vlad S  
Once you find all the holds at the top, it's not too bad - just grab a few razor-sharp crimps and pull really hard. However, most of the beginning of the route is a jughaul compared to Neanderthal Dudes and especially Alien Sex. I heard over the years that some hold broke, so didn't bother trying it. Too bad, because it's by far the best route on this wall. Very fun and actually feels like sport climbing, since you are grabbing holds, unlike on Alien Sex, where you are greasing off tiny crystals while squinting up looking for the next rugosity that will shred your skin. Jun 1, 2015
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
Tim Iwako   Davis, CA
Incredible climb! Fun, easyish climbing to an 11b crux followed by more easy climbing to a full on v5 boulder problem. I heard some holds broke at the crux making this 5.12+? Can anyone confirm? Jul 13, 2018

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