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Routes in 5b. Summit Dome

Gusty Prow (Trooper Traverse extension...), The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Weather T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seams Like Lightning T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Utterly Thin T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Waves of Thunder T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, September '11
Page Views: 120 total, 2/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

"Utterly Thin" climbs the cracks, seams and face features between Seams Like Lightnin' and Waves of Thunder. Some thin gear is used for the 1st half of the pitch, followed by bolts up through the steep, thin face crux. Exciting!

Protection

Thin gear and bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor.

Photos

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Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
Sweet, Justin! As you could probably tell, we hadn't been back since 1st bolting this line a few years back. It was late in the evening, and we didn't have the time to finish the job.... You are probably the only person to ever lead this line. I'm really glad you got on it! Were you able to free all the moves???!!! What did you think the rating should be? I remember some wild, balancy, thumb undercling to the steep bulge with not-so-positive diagonalling finger rails.... Jun 25, 2016
I lead this yesterday, and it was quite fun. The crimps on the crux bulge were a bit licheny, and I brushed them while lowering down after taking pictures of Josh Alford climbing Waves of Thunder. The crack getting to the bolts is probably 5.7 or 5.8, then the climbing gets steadily harder with three or four crimp moves to get over the bulge. Jun 16, 2016