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Routes in South Face

Around the Horn S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grin and Barrett S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highland Malt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Barrett, Bob Ordner, 2008
Page Views: 449 total, 7/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Sep 11, 2012 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Slabby face climb with lots of chickenheads.

The crux is getting to and moving past the first bolt. (I found it useful to place a small cam (3/8") in the flake to get to the first bolt.) It is easiest to start as for the Right route, then traverse left on big holds until you are below the first bolt then go up. Much easier than starting direct.

This climb is not bolted as fully as the other two routes on this face (but it is certainly bolted well enough). If you want more pro, there is an abundance of chickenheads that can be slung.

Location

The central sport route on the south face. 2-bolt anchor with rap rings shared with Highland Malt.

Protection

Many quickdraws, a small cam (optional), slung 'heads (optional).

Photos

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Keely Coxon
  5.9 PG13
Keely Coxon  
  5.9 PG13
Beta re: starting to the right definitely helped me the second time around. Initial lead was onsight and I started directly under the first bolt, which made it feel a bit tricky for a 9-.

I would agree that long falls are certainly possible up high. A couple of the bolts are pretty run out.

Otherwise, this is a really fun climb and has a great little (shaded!) bench in the belay area. Oct 28, 2017
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.9
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.9
One of my favorite pitches in Spokane. No need for gear beyond quickdraws, but there are some long (but safe) falls possible higher on the route. If you can get past the first bolt, the moves higher up should not be an issue anyway. Easiest way to get to the first bolt is a leftward traverse from the tree behind the right-hand climb, but the direct start is within the grade of the rest of the route. Apr 4, 2016